Tuesday 15 October 2013

Denim - cotton - Market Research - A/W 2013


 
Miss Sixty - Autumn/Winter 2013 Lookbook

London Fashion Week - Denim & Jeanswear 2013-2014 Fall Winter Womens Runways II: Designer Denim Jeans Fashion: Season Collections, Runways, Lookbooks and Linesheets
London Fashion Week - Denim & Jeanswear 2013-2014 Fall Winter Womens Runways II: Designer Denim Jeans Fashion: Season Collections, Runways, Lookbooks and Linesheets
James Long a/w 13

London Fashion Week - Denim & Jeanswear 2013-2014 Fall Winter Womens Runways II: Designer Denim Jeans Fashion: Season Collections, Runways, Lookbooks and Linesheets
Peter Jensen a/w 13


          Jessica Ang
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  • ISKO™ Design Denim (Front)

  • Nobody Denim A/W 2013
    Nobody Denim's A/W 2013 campaign featuring models Halcyon and Jack Vanderhart.


    G-Star at Denim Nation, Dublin



    Irish owned denim company: Sonas Denim


    It later came to represent protest and rejections of conformity. Worn by teenagers and young adults they were often refused admission to movies, restaurants and other everyday haunts when wearing them.  But the trend grew and during the 1960’s wearing blue jeans become more acceptable and by the 1970’s they were truly established as a fashion trend. The 80’s brought with it “designer jeans” and denim took to the catwalks.

    In the 1950s Gene Autry brought jeans to great fame as Cowpoke, freemason, patriot, film star, media mogul, baseball tycoon, C&W behemoth. During a one-hour appearance at Gimbel’s department store in Manhattan, Autry signed 1,351 autographs, shook 5,439 hands and sold 4,297 pairs of his own-brand jeans.

    In 1980 15 year old Brooke Shields caused controversy by appearing in a Calvin Klein jean advertisement with the slogan "You want to know what comes between me and my Calvins?" she asked. "Nothing." 


    rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weft passes under two (twi- "double") or more warp threads. This twill weaving produces the familiar diagonal ribbing of the fabric, which distinguishes denim from cotton duck.

    Denim jeans with wear and tear
    It is characteristic of any indigo denim that only the warp threads are dyed, whereas the weft threads remain plain white. As a result of the warp-faced twill weaving, one side of the fabric shows the blue warp threads, the other side shows the white weft threads. This is why jeans are white on the inside and what makes denim's fading characteristics unique compared to every other fabric.

    Denim was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to make blue "jeans", though "jean" then denoted a different, lighter cotton textile; the contemporary use of jean comes from the French word for GenoaItaly (Gênes), where the first denim trousers were made.

    Dry or raw denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production. Over time, denim will generally fade, which is often considered desirable. During the process of wear, it is typical to see fading on areas that generally receive the most stress, which includes the upper thighs (whiskers), the ankles (stacks) and behind the knees (honey combs).
    After being crafted into an article of clothing, most denim is washed to make it softer and to reduce or eliminate shrinkage, which could cause an item to not fit after the owner washes it. In addition to being washed, non-dry denim is sometimes artificially "distressed" to produce a worn look.
    Much of the appeal of factory distressed denim is that it looks similar to dry denim that has, with time, faded. With dry denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of his/her daily life. This creates what many enthusiasts feel to be a more natural, unique look than distressed denim.

    "Selvage denim" refers to a unique type of closed selvage (derived from the Latin Salvare, meaning "to secure, to make safe") that is created using one continuous cross yarn (the weft) that is passed back and forth through the vertical warp beams. This is traditionally finished at both edge with a contrast warp, most commonly red which is why sometimes this type of denim is referred to as "Red Selvage". This process is only possible using a Shuttle loom.

    Shuttle looms weave a narrower 30 inch fabric, which is on average half the width of the more modern shuttleless Sulzer looms (invented in 1927 by the Sulzer brothers) and thus a longer piece of fabric is required to make a pair of jeans

    To maximize yield, jean were traditionally made with a straight outseam that utilised the full width of the fabric including this edge. This became not only desirable but since the production of wider width denim, a mark of premium quality as when worn with a turn up the two selvages where visible rather than an unattractive overlocked edge.

    Rope dye is considered the best yarn dyeing method as it eliminated shading across the fabric width, although the alternative slasher process is cheaper as only one beaming process is needed (in rope dyeing, beaming is done twice)

    Stretch denim usually incorporates an elastic component (such as elastane) into the fabric to allow a degree of give in garments. Only a small percentage is required within the fabric (approximately 3%) to allow a significant stretch capacity of around 15 percent. But this will reduce the life span of the product.

    Balmain 2014 Cruise Collection
    House of Holland - 2014 Cruise Collection

    _UMB6725.450x675
    Barbara Bui 

    jeremy-scott-denim-ensembles-runway-spring-2012
    Jeremy Scott Spring 2012

    Devergo' 2013-2014 Fall Winter Ad Campaign - Autumn Fashion Denim Jeans Catalogue - Cruisers and Modern Hobos: Designer Denim Jeans Fashion: Season Collections, Runways, Lookbooks and Linesheets
    Devergo' 2013-2014 Fall Winter Ad Campaign - Autumn Fashion Denim Jeans Catalogue - Cruisers and Modern Hobos: Designer Denim Jeans Fashion: Season Collections, Runways, Lookbooks and Linesheets
    Devergo’ 2013-2014 Fall Winter Ad Campaign


    Junya Watanabe - Havana,Dublin
    Junya Watanabe patchwork jeans (front view
    €790



    AAn Irish blogger on the denim trend: http://www.helpmystyle.ie/trend-watch-distressed-denim

    Street_Style_0007
    Adam Faulkner – Sales Assistant, The Rage
    Wears: T-shirt by Penneys, shorts which he made himself from an old pair of jeans, Size shoes and shades also from Penneys.
    His favourite place to shop is Tahiti in Georges’ Street Arcade, Dublin.

    AGE: 18
    HOMETOWN: Galway, Ireland
    WHAT SHE'S WEARING: "I'm wearing a denim jacket from Urban Outfitters, a Jay-Z racer top from Primark, tinted sunglasses from TJ Maxx, Doc Martens, and earrings from Miss Selfridge."
    KEEP IT CASUAL: "I like effortless looks with a bit of edge. I love Urban Outfitters and vintage stores, though I'll shop anywhere that suits my taste."

    Linen - Market Reseach - A/W 2013

    Linen Is a fabric with a long staple made from fibres of the Flax plant.

    Its labour intensive to manufacture but is valued for coolness and freshness in hot weather.

    Other textiles in a linen weave such as cotton or hemp can be referred to as linen but have their own specific names.

    similar to cotton in way it handles, though it creases more easily, has good absorbancy, washes well.

    Produced from flax plant, commonly regarded as most ancient fabric.

    Linen was traditionally used for woven or knitted bath,bed and kitchen textiles. Hence the term linens being used for these items.

    Linen dates back thousands of years as far back as 36000 BP. Linen was sometimes used as currency in ancient Egypt as well as being used to wrap mummies because it was seen as a symbol of purity and as a display of wealth.

    Hand woven linen fabrics compared to today's were very fine.



    Lee Young Hee - A/W 2012/13 Couture - linen dresses


    Menswear - linen blazer - Dolce & Gabanna http://store.dolcegabbana.com/us/dolce-gabbana/men/FW-2013/linen-blazer-g2bi1t-fu4ea_cod49124897qr.html

    Buy Chesca Linen Zip Dress, Cream Online at johnlewis.com
    Buy Chesca Linen Zip Dress, Cream Online at johnlewis.com
    Chesca Linen zip dress
     205.00 in Arnott's
    155.00 in House of Fraser (Black)
    sleeveless, zip fronted, dress length 100cm from shoulder neck point to hem
    100% linen
    hand wash
    elasticated hem

    Irish designer Winnie Magee's linen rain collection is made from rainproofed linen. The Winnie Magee Design Company is located at 17A High Street, Comber, Co. Down.

    High Fitted Coat (HFC) 
    Tailored high necked zipped coat in rain-proofed linen

    lwC on gate 200px Elegant long coat in rainproofed linen, with 'Peter Pan' collar (stand up feature) and buttoned cape.  Inverted back pleat with roll up raglan sleeves.  Moleskin collar, cuffs and facing.

    Ukranian Fashion week, Marchi Bobkova a/w 2013

    Ivan Grundahl A/W 2013. Just a perfect look for fall
    Ivan Grundahl a/w 2013

    L
    Knitted Linen - Neringa Ruke



    Item Info

    BRAND:A&S
    ITEM:Puckering Coat
    MATERIAL:55% Cotton, 45% Linen
    SIZE:1, 2, 3
    Length: 77cm (Size 1)
    COLOR:Khaki Green, Charcoal Top Gray (Photo)
    DELIVERY:September
    AADM:Trench Gaberdine Vintage: 100% Cotton / August
    Cotton Linen Serge Flannel: 55% Cotton, 45% Linen / September [Photo]



    Duster coat

    Duster coat


    Taupe Irish linen summer coat by Petria Lenehan.  Features notched collar, fully lined sleeves, pleated front pockets, matte wooden buttons and removable tie at back waist.
    100% Irish linen. 100% cotton liberty print lining. 30 degree wash.
    Pleat chino

    Pleat chino

    Irish linen taupe pants by Petria Lenehan. Features waistband and side pockets lined in liberty print cotton, buttoned belt loops at front and back, back pockets and turn ups with button detailing.
    100% Irish linen, 100% liberty cotton print. Wash at 30 degrees.

    Wide drop sleeve shirt

    Wide drop sleeve shirt

    Boxy Irish linen shirt in pure white by Petria Lenehan. Features dropped sleeves, simple straight collar and hidden fly front button panel.
    100% Irish linen. Wash at 30 degrees.
    Duster dress

    Duster dress

    Navy Irish linen dress by Petria Lenehan. Features round neckline, short curved sleeves and buttoned...





    MINT GREEN LINEN SHIRT

    Mint green long sleeve, button through linen shirt with front single pocket
    Was €33.00
    Now €14.00



    MINUET PETITE

    Slub Linen Skirt

    Product code: D415985

    NOW £ 29.00

    WAS £ 75.00 THEN £ 49.00

    CHESCA

    Tuck Detail Linen Jacket

    Product code: D410725

    £ 199.00



    BLACK LINEN JOGGERS - River Island

    Black linen joggers with drawstring waist and cuff hem
    Was €40.00
    Was €18.00
    Now €12.00 
    100% linen

     
    The Irish linen house - linen tablepieces

    Linen Trousers Ref:50261t

    Tom Murphy Formal wear - cork

    Linen Trousers Ref:50261t

    €99.00                     

    -Plain Front
    -Belt Loops
    -Lined Trousers
    -Weight 240g
    -Composition 100% Linen

     
    Daniela GregisDaniela Gregis Fall Winter 2013 Milan


    Chiffon - Market Research - A/W 2013

    Chiffon Is a balanced tabby woven sheer fabric.

    Woven from S and Z twist crepe yarns, the twist in the crepe puckers the fabric in both directions after the weave giving it strength and rough feel

    Its constructed from cotton silk and other synthetic fabrics, and can be dyed to almost any shade.

    It resembles mesh when magnified giving it transparent properties. Traditionally it is used in evening wear to give a float to gowns as well as bridal dress' and home decorating.

    It can be difficult to work with due to its light and slippery texture and it must be hand washed.

    In the 1700s it was used as a status symbol of the wealthy.


    Barbara Casasola - A/W 2013 RTW
    pants and shorter dresses with mesh and mix-matching colors. The use of chiffon is more prominent in this collection

    #
    Christopher Kane - A/W 2013


    NYFW A/W 13: Hervé Leger by Max Azria
    Chiffon Pleated skirt

     Chanel 2013 A/W- chiffon dress

    stephane rolland fall 2012 couture chiffon jersey caped dress ostrich feather embroidery
    Sand-colored chiffon and jersey caped dress with ostrich feather embroidery.

     
    'Still Grew the Beat of Our Wings' was inspired by the Old Irish Tale of the Children of Lir. - Kaitlin McGrath
    Kaitlin is based in Ireland. She studied at Limerick School Of Art And Design and graduated in2012. Her collections are produced in Ireland.

     
    Themed “Romancing the Lace”,  - Meli Bondre


    DEMELZABUCKLEY - Dive into the Tranquility of Blue

    Demelza is based inIreland. Her collections are produced in Ireland


    PINK CHELSEA GIRL LACE INSERT CHIFFON TOP

    You can never go wrong with a feminine chiffon top and this vintage-inspired Chelsea Girl number in light pink will take you from desk to dinner and everywhere in between. Features cream lace inserts with a cinched in waist and rolled boxy sleeves.
    €26.00
    100% polyester


     

    CHESCAPintuck Chiffon Trouser

    Product code: D443357

    £ 125.00



    Shibori chiffon dress

    Shibori chiffon dress - Dolls

    Silk chiffon dress from Indian design and textile pioneer, Neeru Kumar. Features 15 panels at  both front and back to create a beautifully flowing a line shape, calf length hemline and black cotton slip. Shibori is a traditional Artisan dying process where the fabric is pleated, stitched and fastened by hand before dying, meaning no two items will ever be the same.


    Rick Owens  at Havana, Dublin
    Rick Owens reversible chiffon skirt (front view)
    €955






    RYDER

    Leather panelled bodice with sun ray pleated chiffon skirt.

    REPUBLIC OF IRELAND

    HARVEY NICHOLS - DUBLIN
    Sandyford Road
     Dublin 16


    Sinead Doyle A/W 2013


     Hannah Furlong